About

I’m not sure what to call this site. At first I was going to go with “technical journal” (inspired by this), because I use this space to document projects that I work on, but then I also use it to write about things that aren’t necessarily technical. For instance, Noteworthy Guitars I Had the Chance to Play, or technical things that aren’t necessarily part of a project I’m working on. Basically I post here anytime I feel I learned something important that needs documenting, and thus I create this little archive for myself. I hope this journal (I guess that’s what I’m going with) is helpful to others as much as it is to me.
As far as the name, I like to think it’s temporary and that I’ll change it whenever I think of something that is less dorky.

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6 thoughts on “About

  1. It helped me right away in identifying a Studer 2 track reel to reel machine. I could not find the model # and it’s in a rolling chassis so there’s even less visibility. Once I saw your photos I could see that it is a MKI. So thank you for that!!!
    Do you know anything about what the cause of fuses blowing in them?or perhaps a tech I could pay to work on the machine. I am in Southern California. Our recording studio JEL Recording.
    Thanks for any help you can be!

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    • Thank you, Shelly! This is exactly why I post this stuff, and I’m glad to see it’s helpful to others.

      Obviously without seeing the machine I can’t tell you why it blows fuses. However, from my experience with mine and what I read about others, there’s a good chance it’s a bad capacitor(s), possibly in the power supply. Which fuse does it blow?

      Anyway, these machines came with Frako electrolytic capacitors, and those fail short. Meaning that when they go bad, they create a short, which means that large currents will go through them, and that triggers the fuse to blow. The tantalums also fail short, so it could be a tantalum. I had a shorted electrolytic on the counter board that pulled down one of the power supply rails.

      It’s very likely that the machine still has the original capacitors, and those are easily 30 years old now, so all the electrolytics and tantalums should be replaced. Do not replace the SAL capacitors (orange, and kinda look like tantalums). These are very good capacitors that are most likely still OK! Be worried if your tech tells you these need to all be replaced.

      As far as techs, I honestly don’t know any techs in Southern CA. I’m in Chicago and I know other techs here or in New York. You should join the Studer mailing lists and ask. There are two. One on yahoo and one that is run by ATAE. You can find them quickly through google. These are useful because there are a lot of knowledgeable Studer techs there. Also, if you don’t have a copy of the manual, you should get one from the Studer FTP.

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  2. Hi there!
    I was wondering if you could help me… I recently bought a Studer B67 (non-VU) and I would like to put some VU’s in it. Is that possible. Can’t find any info on it…
    Thanks!

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    • I don’t know if there’s a real easy way. One way would be to get a parts B67 that has VU meters, and just move the whole bottom assembly (the audio electronics) to your machine. So if you find a machine with a totally busted transport but the meters intact, then there you go. Another thing would be to study how the B67s with VU meter bridge are constructed and try and recreate that. Probably the easiest thing to do would be to build an outboard VU metering unit that you can patch in before or after the machine. Sorry I don’t have more concrete information on how to do it. Good luck!

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