Guild S300-D finally done! Studer caps ordered!

This process took a while, partially because I’m lazy, but also because of other projects. Here’s a recap of what was done:

-The nut slot was cut too low. So I cut a piece of Mahogany with the grain oriented the same as the neck. Thickness-ed it and glued it to the nut slot with hot hide glue.

-Frets were removed, which was a little painful because I was getting a lot of chips. I glued the chips back in, and used some ebony dust where needed.

-Fretboad sanded and leveled. I could have really just waited to do that and then put superglue wherever the fingerboard was chipped.

-Frets installed, and I dripped superglue into all the slots to keep those little bastards in place. This was my first refret and not all the frets were seated wonderfully. The old frets’ crown was .106″, and I always felt like I my fingers couldn’t fit on the neck once I passed the 12th fret, so I went with smaller frets. I got StewMac’s Medium/Highest. The crown is 0.80″ and that makes a lot of a difference.

-Fret ends cut, filed, etc. Basically whatever is needed to be done so that they don’t poke you when you play.

-Leveled the frets. That came out really well. Maybe my best fret leveling job to date? Also dressed the corners of the frets, of course.

-New bone nut. I wrote all about it already.

-Pickups were potted by Fralin. Also talked about that already.

-Little bridge pickup mishap. These pickups are held in the rings with three screws – two on the bass side, one on the treble side. This way the angle of the pickup can also be adjusted. To do that, Guild (or Dimarzio) soldered a two-hole tab to the pickup’s single hole tab. Anyway, that two-hole tab broke and the pickup was jiggling around. Soldered the tab back on.

-Replaced the neck pickup with the a Guild S100 humbucker I bought for very little money from a friend.

Done. I’ll edit this later to add pictures.

I also ordered the caps I need to (partially) recap the B67. Going to do the suppression caps first, and see if it’s working alright. Then do all the electrolytics and tantalums in the PSU, Transport, and whatever else that has tantalum and isn’t in the audio path. Once the machine is working I’ll do the motor phase capacitors (big ones that are hanging from the chassis), and start working on the audio cards one by one. I’ll pose a list of the capacitors here for my own and others’ sake.

I have a few more things to post about the B67, but I’ll get to it later.


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